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Now Super-Charged!

This install utilizes a Vortech V1 A-Trim Super-Charger

The stock Fiero intake system does not allow this engine to breathe at its optimum capability.  The power curve levels off fairly early at about 4500-4800 rpm because of this.  Aftermarket performance intakes for fuel injection are almost non-existant and expensive for this engine.  The only other option is to provide boost, either by  turbo-charging or installing a super-charger.

The Vortec V1 A-Trim Centrifugal Super-Charger mounts in place of the A/C compressor (which I never had), so if you're equipped with an air conditioning system (A/C), your only choice for boost is to go with turbo-charging.  My second reason for going with a super-charger is that after installing an expensive set of FOCOA headers, that last thing i wanted to do was install something in the exhaust that cuts down on their effectiveness.

Because this engine is running high compression, this is a low boost application of 5-6 lbs.  It's largest benefit is to provide adaquate air flow to feed the the 3.4L engine and overcome the stock intake system's limitations.

(Click thumbnails for larger image)

V1 -1.jpg (15246 bytes)

V1 -2.jpg (17440 bytes) 

This is what I started with from an eBay purchase, a used Vortech V1 A-Trim Super-Charger.  I got it with the Bosch blow-off valve and a misc. items I never used.  The kit was originally for a Chev 350 V8, though this "basic" supercharger is used in many other applications as well.

The V1 A-Trim SC has a maximum boost capability of 10 psi depending on pulley diameter used.  V5 & V9 models are smaller and produce higher boost and may be  used on a Fiero too.  The Z-Spec Super-Charger Kit uses a Vortech V9 (10-20 psi)

firewall side.jpg (260779 bytes)

This is the firewall side of the engine with the Vortech Super-Charger (SC) mounted where the A/C compressor would be.  The 2.75" SC discharge is reduced with a silicone connector to a 2.25" pipe that runs under the headers, then up to the throttle body (TB).  It is sheathed in a sleeve sewn from Thermo Tec aluminized heat barrier fabric (good to 2000 degrees).  This is to reduce engine bay heat from heating up the discharge pipe.   The feed pipe from the fender mounted air filter (not shown) also has a heat insulating sleeve.

closeup.jpg (68334 bytes)

Here's a closeup of the front corner.  A 3/8" thick steel mounting plate was fabricated that attaches to the front of the engine.  It attaches to two upper water pump bolts and a third mounted directly into the block near the bottom.  Five bolts attach the SC to the mounting plate.  An oil feed line attaches to the SC to lubricate the gear drive which increase the centrifugal impeller speed by a ration of 4 times pulley speed.  There is an oil gallery in the block from the oil filter into which the oil pressure gauge screws into.  This gallery has a port above ths starter, which is where the oil supply line is connected.

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This front shot shows the routing of the belt drive.  We tried to maximize contact on the SC drive pulley and crank pully to prevent slipage.  The pulley wrap on the alternator is the same as stock.  We don't anticipate any problems with slipage on the water pump, but if necessary, a second idler pully can be installed between the alternator and water pump pulley.

oil filter.jpg (74027 bytes)

In this photo, it only appears that the oil filter is in the way.  The SC-to-pipe connecter used will swing up and away from the filter, allowing changing as normal when doing an oil change.  The oil return line from the SC is visible where in connects to the oil pan.  This is an unpressurized gravity return line, so it must have a slope and be as large a diameter as possible.  We changed the fittings from 1/2" to the larger 5/8" hose size (the largest that we could fit to the SC).  In the bottom right hand corner, you can see a torque strap connecting the  cradle to the transmission bellhousing.

from top.jpg (60126 bytes)

Looking straight down, you can see the SC fit snugly where the A/C compressor would be.  There's not alot of clearance between the SC housing and firewall (about 3/4"), but the engine has a poly dogbone, all new engine& transmission mounts, and the secondary torque strap to prevent any rocking.

air filter.jpg (40682 bytes)

The K&N cone shaped air filter is mounted in the fender like many other CAI setups Fiero owners are using.  The filter has a 3" connection to the pipe, which then reduces to 2.5" as it snakes it way past the exhaust downpipe to the SC.  It then increases to fit the 3.5" suction connection of the SC.  It is sleeved with a Thermo Tec fabric sleeve to keep the air cold as it passes through the engine bay.  A rubber mat is fitted and fastened in the bottom of the area to minimize the amount of dust, water and mud that normally kicks up into here.  This will keep the air filter cleaner longer as all the intake air will be coming in through the fender grill.

top intake.jpg (59769 bytes)

Up top, the intake pipe connects to the TB with a 2.25" silicone connector.  The Bosch blow-off valve is visible upstream of the TB.  It dumps back into the intake pipe to minimize noise.  The water injection nozzle and MAT (manifold air temperature) sensor are also located in this area for easy access.  In the corner where the stock air filter would be, is located a tank for the water/methanol injection system. It is protected from radiant heat coming from the exhaust downpipe by a heat shield.

water tank.jpg (58291 bytes)

The water/methanol supply tank (washer tank from a Cadillac Fleetwood) was painted black to be less obvious in the engine bay, but a strip was left unpainted so water level can easily be seen.  The tank is equipped with a float switch, and a warning LED is installed in the dash to warn when the tank's water level is running low.  There are also LEDs to show that there is power to the pump circuit and when spraying.

water pump.jpg (58519 bytes)

An Aquamist Water Injection system is installed to cool the air charge and prevent detonation.  The stock cruise control canister was changed to a smaller one.  This allowed space to mount the Aquamist 100 psi water pump below it.  The pump's relay, fuse, and pressure switch are located here too for easy access.  Boost signal for the pressure switch is taken from the vacuum line to the canister.  The pressure switch is adjustable and activates the pump when the set pressure is reached.   A heat shield (not shown) protects it from the radiant heat of the nearby header.






-Vortech V1 from eBay US$675 (included blow-off valve and misc.)
-Aquamist Water Injection $650 (complete kit)
-Fabrication of mounting bracket, spacers, & drill/tap of oil pan $240
-Fabrication of intake tubes (mandrel bends, ceramic coated) $400
-Custom tuned PROM  Wester's Garage $229
-Misc items - belt, oil lines, bolts, turbo-hoses etc.


Vortech Super-Chargers
I used a V1 A-Trim which has a maximum boost capability of 10 psi.

V5 & V9 models are smaller and produce higher boost and may be  used.
The Z-Spec Super-charger Kit uses a Vortech V9 (10-20 psi) 

Aquamist Water Injection

Silicone hoses/connectors

Thermo Tec Products